Loch Eriboll
At a Glance
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Contacts None!!
Loch Eriboll is a popular stopping off point for those intending
to, or who have just managed to, weather Cape Wrath
Shelter is good for anything but strong Southerlies or strong
Northerlies and even then, if you choose your anchorage wisely,
there is only the wind to deal with as the swell is damped by the
land. In unsettled weather it is a good idea to ride to two
bridled anchors or set an anchor watch as the funnelling effect of
the glens can be experienced in all wind conditions and even a
slight change in direction can produce unexpected results!
Probably the best advice to give for those intending to stop here
is that adverse conditions can last for quite a while.
Communication is difficult; only O2 has mobile coverage and even
that has to be explored for; there is no broadband connection of
any sort. The good thing is that the Coast Guard seems to have
reasonable coverage on VHF so, for emergencies, at least you can
contact them (mind you, I don't think they'd consider running out
of bacon to be an emergency!!)
The only evidences of humans are the farmsteads clinging to the
sides of the hills and the occasional groups of habitation on the
Western side of the loch. There are no shops, no Post Offices, no
filling stations and no bus services apart from the school bus in
the morning and the afternoon. There is regular through traffic on
the road around the loch but it tends to be either packs of motor
bikes or left hand drive camper vans and it was found that none of
these stop for marooned sailors.
So, be warned, you will have on board only what you arrive with and
you will be unable to replenish any of it.
That's all the negatives over with; the chances are that you will
arrive here, drop the pick and breath a sigh of relief. Hopefully
it won't be raining (hollow laughter!) and you can break out the
gin or cocoa (according to your preference in these matters!) and
sit and take in the view which is something else; and the silence;
okay there's a bit of stuff on the road but other than that, the
rest is nature; keep the binoculars and camera handy as your
chances of sighting a sea otter chuntering past the boat as the sun
sets are very high.
Mind you, it depends on your direction of travel; if East bound
you've experienced all the delights of this part of the world and
are progressing towards civilisation, it's all a bit
déjà vue; if on the other hand you are West
bound this is all new and you can be forgiven if you think you've
died and awoken in heaven!!! If it is of any help, "Eilean" is an
island, "Sgeir is an isolated rock or Skerry and "Camas" is a
harbour or bay; for anything else there's the internet!
Loch Eriboll
Approach
It is not easy to pick out the entrance to the loch from a distance.................................
there are apparent inlets and glens all along the approach from
the East and, until you are a couple of miles away, Whiten Head is
not easily identified. It can be a bit unsettling but you just have
to trust that if you have been progressing along the line you drew
on the chart the night before then you will eventually be able to
pick out that headland out from all the others. If it is of any
help Whiten Head is a steep-to cliff and from some angles you can
see the off shore stacks which, in good light are white against the
cliffs.
Sorry we have no photographs of the approach but to give you some
idea the first photo "Entrance to Loch Eriboll" was taken between
Eilean Clumhrig and Freisgill Head when outside it was blowing
between F4 and F5 (hence no photos, short handed).
Once into the entrance of the Loch look ahead for the white
lighthouse on the east side beyond Sgeir a'Bhuic (at night you want
to run in on the white sector of that light (Fl 10s)) and make
towards that and then follow round to the SW to gain the heart of
the loch.
£ GMT
Waypoint
Charts
Rules & Regs
Hazards
Tides
Berthing
There is a small privately owned harbour at Rispond Bay which should not be used without the owner's permission....
.... and a pier at Portnancon used by visiting fishing boats and
of not much use to visiting yachts. So, you will be looking for an
anchorage, preferably out of the wind.
Rispond Bay (58°32.9N 004°39.4W) is sheltered in all but Easterly
winds and is useful if just stopping overnight. Temporary shelter
in suitable conditions can also be found in the SE lee of Eilean
Hoan.
Further into the loch you have a choice between the West side
and East side halfway down. On the East side there is good holding
in either bay North and South of Ard Neakie but in Southerly winds
it's better to go a mile further down to Camas an Duin. Careful
here, the Clyde cruising notes say to anchor "off the white house"
which is confusing as there is a very prominent white house about
half a mile further down which is definitely not a good place to
anchor; the chart says "red roof" and that is what to go for, in
behind the fish farm.
Our Photo "Loch Eriboll looking SW" shows the "white house" and you
can see for yourselves why it's not a good place to clew up. On the
West side, opposite Ard Neakie is Portnancon which is the preferred
anchorage in Westerlies and North Westerlies but, if you can take
the bottom and elect to tie up to the pier, be aware that fishing
boats do visit here as well.
In most of these anchorages you will be surprised at how close in
you can get to the shore and still have enough depth at low water
but, as has been said, for peace of mind you might consider
anchoring to two anchors on a yoke on the bow a) to reduce scope
close in to the shore and b) to increase your holding should the
wind turn in the night.
If you want to see what it can be like up here have a look
at
Other bits – sailing Fiesta
(fiesta40.net) and
select t he video "Rocna - my saviour " which
was experienced by our member and described below.
Facilities
You are going to find that you are suddenly back in the dark
ages of leisure cruising and your only weather information will be
the three hourly reports given out by the Coast Guard (for Cape
Wrath to Rattray Head) or, if you can get the reception, the
Shipping Forecast on the steam radio (you want the Fair Isle
one)
There are none of the usual facilities; no toilets, showers, shore
power, shops, buses or Wifi. No petrol, diesel, Gas or Gaz.
The Clyde Cruising Club mentions the telephone box on the east
side and quotes 2miles as its distance from Camas an Duin, it is in
fact only 1.75 miles but it's up hill and down dale and seems a lot
longer; be assured that it was definitely there in the summer of
2012 and was working!! It's adjacent to the T-junction
south of Camas an Diun at the Eriboll Estate.
The nearest supplies on the West side are at Durness and on the
East side round the corner in Tongue, both over a dozen miles away.
So, unless you want to end up on hard tack, salt beef and rum, make
sure you have more than the usual supplies of tinned and dried
goods on board. Water can be obtained from burns and springs
Having said that, in extremis, if you knock on the door of any of
the cottages you'll find the people here are very helpful, they
understand the problems of supply and will willingly help you out,
either from their own stocks or when they go into the local "town"
to shop for themselves
What to Do
Hope you are good at entertaining yourselves! The only problem is that when stuck here because of bad weather it can be miserable at anchor so as soon as it is nice you'll want to be off again; if the weather is promised good for a couple of days it really is worth just sitting and soaking it in; places are meant to be enjoyed not just arrived at!!